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For
the Love of the Bottle
The
senseless involvement of the fish.
I
do not eat fish. I simply do not. Don't even try to order it for me
or I'll make a scene, pretend to wheeze, and scream with my mouth open
wide in sheer terror from the violent allergic reaction. Don't try to
order the mussels smothered in garlic oil and breadcrumbs. I can still
smell the mussels and I'll hate you for it. To think, if you deceived
me about dinner, what lengths will you go to? You will inevitably lie
to your children and I will have to divorce you anyway. I cannot afford
an attorney. Looking at your shirt and slack combination, I'll go out
on a limb here and assume you can't either. Please don't insult my intelligence
by ordering the shrimp cocktail. It is not a neutral fish. It is a fish
and by nature, there is no neutrality. I will order the carpaccio instead.
What, you don't like meat? You'll learn.
We
are at Tutta Pasta off Bleecker. He orders the Caesar salad without
anchovies. Since there is random hair associated with this fish he believes
this to be meat. Perhaps a detected abnormality in the animal kingdom,
he muses. Inhumanity, he suggests. Animals aren't human, I reply. He
nods his head and brings his finger to his lips in mock thought. I peruse
the menu and settle on the ravioli. Brilliant choice, I remark to myself.
The waiter comes over, scribbles down our requests, and with shoulders
slumped, skitters away. A collection of waiters and busboys form a huddle
at the bar, my tape ends, I introduce a period of question, answer.
He has no questions. I ask him about his family--merely to be polite.
He leans back in his chair in utter terror and proclaims that intense
probing into his life does not comfort him on the first date. He will
however, confirm the details of his ad: yes, he is an environmental
lawyer, yes he despises children, and no, he is not married. Simply
put, anything else was entirely too much information to reveal about
oneself. He diverts the conversation to the necessity of Court T.V.
in prime time television. I pretend to listen, nodding occasionally.
I am confused as to why he chose to offer nothing personal about himself.
"But
you're a lawyer? You live to talk!" I wonder aloud.
"Precisely,"
he says. I respond to his leaning back on the chair by pushing my torso
forward, my dress pressing into the marinara. I am confused, disturbed,
somewhat intrigued. All of my pre-conceived notions about my date are
simply wrong. No tape? No tape? I had not planned for this turn of events.
So I improvise. Then stall. I had this planned. I had this date neatly
compacted, like the rest. He would play his tape, words jumbled, tone
soft and succinct--drowned by the echo of voices concatenating into
one solid annoying conversation blurted from the other first date refugees
in the first date restaurant. His napkin lay untouched, his glass of
Pinot Grigio, empty. I can see his hands pressed firmly against his
lap, staining his pants with olive oil. His fork is nestled comfortably
in the lobster, stuck within its blaring red shell.
Intermittently,
the fool tries to shake the fork from the lobster, but the lobster proves
more sinister--it has claimed a victim: a faux silver fork streaked
with remnants of dish detergent and creamy butter that have hardened
into a cold moldy jaundiced mass. After three bottles of wine our conversation
consists of forced coughing and mumbled requests for the check. I stare
at his receding hairline, and his cheap navy blue suit covered in fuzz
and find myself growing concerned about the levels of desperation I
seem to eagerly plunge into. I trace the rim of my wine glass. Bits
of cork float in the lukewarm Merlot. I yearn for candlelight. The harsh
glare of the table lamp. I want a second date.
We
stumble through the awkward mess mankind deems to call dessert. Another
wasted waiter offers a silver tray piled high with rubberized dessert
options. I have been at this restaurant twenty-five times this past
month and this is far from refreshing. My date orders the pistachio
ice cream--I stare in disdain. Twenty-two grams of fat and counting,
I mutter, non-fat latte foam forming a non-fat moustache above my lip.
I quietly belch and cover my mouth and begin to giggle. He looks up
at me and frowns in disgust but says nothing. I grow ill watching bits
of chocolate chip forming new teeth as he smiles at me, gums coated
in neon green. I cannot possibly be this desperate. I laugh. Certainly,
I am. His face falls and he glances at his watch, at the wall, at the
napkin in his lap--at anything but me. We split the check and I automatically
assume he is an unemployed Communist and I make my way away from him
onto the street. He scurries after me and hails a cab. He attempts the
first kiss debacle. I discreetly resist, feigning a foreign gum disease
that plagued me from a recent dental appointment. I close my mouth and
puff my cheeks and point to my face and sadly shake my head. You really
don't want to go there, my eyes insist. A cab pulls to the curb and
I jump in. He politely leans in through the window of the cab, his right
hand holding his tie against his lint-ridden blazer, and asks me to
never email him again. He leans back and throws a tape in the back seat.
His tape. I gasp as the tires screech from the curb. Bastard.
Eat,
woman, EAT.
After
several glasses of Pinot Grigio, I wave away the bread plate and the
obligatory garlic and oil accompaniment that oddly resembles castor
oil with a dash of pepper. The waiter, clearly distressed, scurries
away with his head bowed, as if my decision not to eat the pesto is
a personal attack on the restaurant. Various lip prints on the wine
glasses farthest from me are neat, a perfect curve of my lower lip etched
on the glass. The ones in front of me disturb me. I crane my head, Linda
Blair style, and squint towards the street desperately searching for
familiar territory. Nothing. I turn back and my head begins to involuntarily
bob up and down; lower lip curls to meet the indent in my chin and I
cackle, the glass shattering pitch scrambling from the base of my throat
accompanied by a series of randomized snorting and sharp intakes of
breath. Michael, my date, whom I always believed to be secretly gay,
is not pleased. I remember our first date, an off-off Broadway version
of Peter Pan and Michael clapping furiously, his body arching
forward in an exaggerated fashion while I sat next to him and scowled.
He cuts into the veal, fingers gently massaging the flatware. I lean
over and shout, "They kill babies to make that you know." Naturally,
my shouting is followed with traces of Pinot Grigio still warm on my
tongue. Several specks of my saliva decorate his freshly ironed oxford
shirt. He pretends not to notice while frantically attempting to finish
his meal. I find his uneasiness fairly comical.
"Really!"
Michael squeals. He opens his mouth wide, gray morsels wet on his tongue.
I almost cry "Bambi" throughout the restaurant. But instead I lean over
and whisper "Close your mouth for Chrissakes, this isn't the Discovery
Channel."
"I
wonder how many endangered species formed what you dare to call an outfit,"
he scoffs.
"Whatever,"
I reply and wave for the waiter, who has expertly maintained a low profile
in the bathroom and escaped my incessant finger-snapping.
"Perhaps
you should attempt at opening the menu," he says, scowling. "This is
what one does in a restaurant. You might want to make the giant leap."
"This
is about the gay comment the other night at your parents, right? I'm
feeling it, right here," I pound my chest, hitting myself a bit too
hard. I constantly attempt to adjust to the glaring light and tap the
bottle, nails scraping at the label, glue collecting under my fingertips.
I am almost convinced I am narcoleptic except that my disease conveniently
surfaces six glasses of wine into the date.
"I
am not gay!" Michael hisses. Bits of chewed fish land on my plate. He
waves his hands back and forth in the air as if protecting himself from
the onslaught of bees. Then he slumps back in his chair and sighs, defeated,
as if this conversation had been photocopied and handed out to every
woman he has ever dated. I can barely make out what is left on his plate,
only the collection of 50 glasses that surrounds it. They take up more
room than the entrees. This image is perhaps a photocopy of every date
I've had and I too lean in my chair, exhausted.
"At
least order a salad for Chrissake," he pleads. I shake my head no. The
people seated around me seemed to have formed twins. I lift the dead
weight of my hand and proceed to count around the room. Michael is not
impressed. His nose gently brushes against the veal; globs of Alfredo
stain his tie. His one shaking hand maneuvers the rigatoni around his
plate, collecting any remnants of chicken and sauce under the edge of
the fork that wears the cold leftovers of some other poor date's dinner.
The other hand is buried in his hair, motioning strands of curls to
fall in front of his face. He starts to pull the curls over his eyes
and painfully exhales.
"You're
sick!"
"I
am on a DIET, you could learn from a sudden aspiration towards weight
loss. It might help you find that somewhat special gay male match. Could
we get another bottle?" I yell to a passing waiter and spit, again,
Pinot Grigio at Michael, bitter.
For
the love of the bottle.
Four
days, eight hours, thirty-two minutes and…ten seconds since I raised
my fifth glass of Merlot to my other inebriated companions--and gulped
my final drink. It was a typical Wednesday evening at El Rio Grande:
we were encased in an all-glass bar, a waitress carrying frozen blue
margaritas on her right arm, waving to the fraternity boys turned suits
all celebrating someone's birthday with her left. Jocular pats on the
back from one grey Brooks Brothers to another brought the atmosphere
of pretension full circle.
Cate
leaned over and warned, "Slow down Em, we have to meet Rachel and Christopher
and the Yale people at Shiraz." Christopher and Rachel were the type
of couple destined to be in a Honda commercial, showcasing gleaming
orthodontia and expensive eyewear. I could not handle the perfect people
and their perfect friends in their freshly cleaned pressed khakis and
polo shirts debating politics that never would or ever will affect them.
Cate cocked her head to the left as if inviting me into a private condescension
session and scraped the base of her neck with her over-chewed fingernails.
She did this when she was worried. I responded with ambivalence. This
was how I reacted when she was worried.
Shiraz
was a Soho jazz club that maintained a menu of overpriced, illegible
drinks and a pitiful selection of incomprehensible hors d'oeuvres. The
music was an "eclectic" take on modern jazz, the saxophone combined
with an electric guitar for one song, a flute and blues harmonica medley,
another. I found myself adorning rubberized ear plugs in hues of electric
blue and blister red to combat the noise and was immediately complimented
and labeled chic. It was a place where couples who auditioned for car
commercials, preppy clothing lines, and commercial banks showcasing
real estate loans gathered to muse over their imperfections. They basked
in their humility. "Yes, I went to Yale, but I paid for my housing!"
I could not deal with this sober.
We
walked (I ambitiously attempted to walk; Cate strode confidently) into
the densely packed, low-lit jazz club. As I was dragged through the
club, blurs of people invaded my peripheral vision. Home-constructed
fluorescent wire candleholders adorned each white-clothed table, accompanied
by a single fake red rose. This was the originality of Soho. Couples
leaning into one other, motioning to the bands. A woman's manicured
fingers tapping her partner's lips. His long, thick fingers covered
in small curly hairs clasped, enclosed, containing the fingers that
grazed his lips. After my fifth trip to the bathroom in twenty minutes,
my table formed a small huddle and whispered. Rachel stared at my scarlet
nose in pity. She clutched onto Christopher and they mumbled softly,
the blaring cacophony of the trumpet and tenor sax drowning their conversation.
Their faces swirled before me and formed a collective scowl. I leaned
my head to one side, facing the band and closed my eyes. I prayed when
they opened, I would be home, asleep.
Several
hours later--eleven bathroom trips for which I blamed various glasses
of red wine and a seventy-five dollar bill later--Cate leaned over.
"They're going to leave," she shouted above the band. She refused to
look at me. She stared through the clear tall glass holding gin and
tonic.
"Why?
I thought we were having fun? We're having fun, right? This is fun,
right? Why aren't you smiling? Why are you looking at me like that?
Listen I didn't do ANYTHING. OKAY, it was just a little. A little. Just
a little."
Hangover.
Four
days, ten hours, four home-burnt chocolate chip cookies, seven glasses
of water, me rising from my couch to my room, pacing, to lose time,
to pass it by. Four days will turn into five. I will pace. I will turn
on the television, flip through two hundred and fifty cable channels.
I will pause at All in The Family, I will open the window and
yell up to the college freshmen that accommodate the apartment above:
"Can't you people fucking understand that Evie or whatever Archie Bunker's
wife's name was died of cancer! Fucking breast cancer!" They will laugh
and blast pop music. I will slam the window shut on a spider attempting
to crawl into the depths of my gritty apartment.
"Think
buddy, that by killing you, I saved you," I will affirm, confidently,
semi-confidently, not confident. I will rise from my couch again and
put the dishes away because normal people put dishes in cabinets when
they are dry. I will even pull the rag draped over the refrigerator
handle, the refrigerator that tilts to one side, the refrigerator that
houses various condiments, stale seltzer and diet coke, and more burnt
cookies, and I will furiously wipe the slightly damp dishes dry, drops
of warm water will scurry from one end of the glass to the other when
shaken. I will open the refrigerator and close it again. I will not
eat more cookies. I will--phone rings.
"Em,
you BITCH!" It's Alena. "Did you die and not invite me to the funeral?"
"No,
still alive," I moan and open the refrigerator, its fluorescent lights
whispering to me. I stare at the half-empty bottle of Merlot on the
third shelf, label faced down, and cork plunged into the green glass
neck, scrapes of cork stained with wine, and slam the door shut. The
floor shakes from the slam. Three jabs of a broom handle greets me from
the neurotic old couple below.
"I
am totally offended but am willing to accept a book of apologies and
lots of ass kissing," Alena coos into the phone.
"Yeah," I reply.
"So
listen, we're going to Centro Fly tonight and I'm thinking you might
have some party favors lined up for us?" I will pull the phone from
my ear. I can hang up. I can claim that my phone is dying as phones
that go uncharged sometimes do.
"Uh
listen Alena, I'm on this new kick, no drugs, no alcohol." When, in
actuality, I feel like the brown putrid mass that still collects at
the end of my stairwell. My follicles start to blister, my fingers begin
to strum, tap--fists begin to pound on my thighs; thighs begin to turn
red. I will see blood rise to my legs. I will begin to believe that
blood does indeed flow through my body--twisting over sinews, creeping
into the cell wall, mingling in plasma, abruptly showering the surface
of my skin. Nails, jagged, because I bite them now. Scratching my forearm,
skin collecting under my nails, blood staining my skin.
"Hello?
You there?" Alena yells through the receiver. "Jesus Christ Em, you
are completely killing my buzz and I am in economic drinking mode."
I jump up from the couch in horror as blood trickles through my shirt,
my shirt torn by my own nails, my legs displaying scattered blue and
green marks from my pounding. The phone is slippery in my sweaty palm.
"I have to go Alena. I have to call you back. I have to watch All
in The Family--Edith has cancer."
"Edith?
Cancer? What? Click. Dial Tone. Receiver is placed down. Receiver slips
from the cradle.
I
hear a busy signal, loud beeping. I am ambivalent. Sound, sober sleep.
Wednesday.
Seven days, a week, even. Daylight does exist. I am clothed (not the
dirty cotton pajamas) and sitting at a crowded outdoor table at La Giara
on 34th and 3rd.
"Can
I get a gin and tonic," Matt yells at the waitress, hand covering his
cell phone. It is 1:02PM.
"I
think we need to get a bottle? Red or white?" Lori beckons the table.
The waitress stands before me in an ill-fitted black and white uniform.
Her white plastic laminated nametag reads "Heidi."
"What
can I get ya?" she squeaks.
"Diet
Coke," I mutter. Matt covers his phone; "You are kidding me, right?"
He returns to his conversation, "Andy, you gotta hear this: Em's ordering
a Coke." He guffaws. His glasses slip to the base of his nose.
"Diet
Coke, you asshole," I retort.
"Andy
gives it a week," Matt laughs.
"Tell
Andy that no one buys the sex change operation," I snap, sipping through
a torn straw at my flat Classic Coke. I will make it through this lunch.
I will not mass murder my friends using hardened taco salad shells and
I will not bludgeon the perky Heidi with the torn pink straw.
"I
know you hate being set up," Clarissa begins.
"You're
right, I hate being set up," I finish.
"Well,
as all of you know, I am dating Kevin and we ran into Steve, his very
cute trader friend."
"I
think I need a stomach pump," I moan. I gulp the last of my Coke and
feverishly snap my fingers to summon Heidi for a dire refill.
"You
are so dramatic!" Clarissa giggles, clasping both hands over her Dewars
and Coke.
"Don't
date traders," Lori interjects. Her hand not respectfully clasped over
her cell phone.
"The
market is completely stabilized," Clarissa replys condescendingly in
the midst of after cocktail lipstick reapplication.
"I
don't think I need to date right now. I'm on this self-cleansing binge
and I just really want to focus on me right now."
Clarissa
throws her hands up in defeat, "Okay, Okay."
I
am getting ready for the date with Steve, the trader. Since everyone
in New York is frightened of revealing his or her address due to premature
stalking situations, first dates always meet at the bad restaurant.
He picks Tutta Pasta, a dump with Ragu sauce off Bleecker. This is bleak.
We greet one another awkwardly at the doorway adorned with laminated
Zagat reviews streaked with marinara sauce and an overpriced menu coated
with olive oil.
As
we are seated, I crane my neck to scope out my exit routes. Normally,
under the soothing sedation of two bottles of wine (one consumed before
said date and the other, naturally, split between the two parties on
said date during the course of the meal) his voice would have melted
and amassed with the others a low murmur, an irritating buzz seeping
and slithering within my inner ear canal. I am sober and he is uncomfortably
loud and exceedingly talkative.
"They
have the best steaks here! You wouldn't believe it from a pasta place."
He enthusiastically pushes me into the dining area before the coat check
lady can issue my ticket.
"I
don't eat meat." I am searching for normal first-date questions, but
cannot utter a single syllable. I sit numbly as Steve orders for me
(which momentarily disgusts me but this incessant prickling pain that
attacks my stomach-dull steak knives pressing into my skin.) I peruse
the wine list, fingers tracing the Merlots, the Siracs, and heavy richness
of the bloody French Cabernets. I pause. My oval shaped nails circling
the 1989 Monte Cristo make sharp indents in the plastic. Abruptly I
stop and discretely shove my hands under the table, twisting, twisting
the napkin. We muddle through painfully awkward conversation until our
food arrives. The waiter pauses at our table, our dishes decorating
his arm. He places them before us, lowers his head and scurries away.
"You
shouldn't order so much to eat, it doesn't look right." He pushes my
half eaten singular shrimp to his plate, wiping the sautéed butter sauce
off his perfectly shaved chin as he leans over to sample my appetizer.
"Thank
you. I forgot, anorexia is the wave of the new millennium," I reply
saccharine sweet. I tear a half-eaten lobster tail out of his mouth
and savagely plunge it into mine. He laughs and moves his hands up and
down in a "calming" motion. "Easy there killer, I was just kidding."
I want the wine list. This pain, this shooting pain, will not go away.
This affliction I have settles in my ear, clogs it. Wine meanders through
my inner canal-shutting out the outside world.
He
continues, "So you work for a design firm? Web design, right? Using
computers and what not." He fumbles for words, groups of words, stutters
between phrases and slang to fill the crowded cigar-stenched room with
meaningless conversation. He fights so hard to assimilate as I fight
so hard not to vomit.
"I
know this sounds really trite, but I think I have found exactly what
I want to do-I love design, it's all about being creative…" I smile,
moving my food in semi-circles about my plate, creating a drawing with
the mass of blood from the untouched medium steak, white from the whipped
garlic mashed red potatoes and green from the string beans, crushed
and smashed from the hard pressing of my fork. As Steve continues to
speak, I press harder, grinding the beans into the blood and suddenly
feel pity for the poor peas.
"I
mean, yeah, for now," he pauses, watching me grind the peas against
the steak.
"And
that means?" I reply, leading.
"Well,
until you get…until you get a real job. It's not like you're going to
do this forever, Right?"
Silence.
His eyes sift from table to table, barstool-to-barstool. He pats at
his cell phone in his jacket pocket and then waves the waiter over,
lightly brushes his sleeve, fingering the satin cuffs The waiter bows,
chest heaving forward, shoulder blades protruding through his white
cotton jacket, while Steve asks him to repeat the dessert specials,
slowly, for a third time. Dessert lays untouched, coffee cold and black,
ashes from countless cigarettes fill the ashtray. He has to fill the
table with something -- he has to allow words to settle. "I didn't mean…to
say…What I mean is, I'm happy that you're doing this, with this little
company and their inconsequential projects but in all reality, how do
you find it fulfilling? I mean, do you plan on living on that salary
for the rest of your life? I hear you practically live in Harlem? How's
that fulfilling?" He begins to sweat and I enjoy his
sweat. Perhaps he sweats because he is scared to say what he has been
thinking since ! his friend Kevin paid him to go on this date: Em knows,
she's overheard the conversation, the terms, the offer.
"And
I guess I should sell stock, or sit behind a desk. I guess that would
validate me. I guess that profit sharing and matching rewards would
make my life more fulfilling. Thank you, Steve," I rise. "Can you sit
down? Let's just sit down," he rises. His crisp tailored shirt under
his 100% virgin wool Zegna jacket clings to his after-shave soaked body.
His glasses slide down to the tip of his nose and I wonder for a moment
if they'll fall into my plate of blood and crushed produce. And I wonder
if he would quickly snatch them up and fanatically clean the lenses,
moving his fingers faster and faster, blotting them with water to make
them clean and perfect again. I wonder if he thinks he can stop me from
leaving, if he can make me the clean and perfect reflection of himself.
I long for a glass of wine; I want the hissing and screeching of a subway
entering Christopher Street station.
"Let's
just talk about this," he hisses -- his hand on my shoulder, no longer
polite and controlled. The waiter walks over. A smart little blonde
man with a smart close shave and a smart starched uniform. "If you and
your guest would like to take your drink to the bar, perhaps have a
cigar," he too, struggles to save us from being seen by the myriad of
tables suffocating me. "Perhaps try some port?"
"No,
I think I'll be going home," I reply, struggling to push the words out.
I place my hand on Steve's shoulder and sample the wool of his coat,
thumb and forefinger gauging the thickness of the material. I want to
cover my face with the softness of his jacket, to inhale the cologne
and sweat that darkens the jacket underarms. I stand, frail, arms weak,
leaning against the dirty rail of the newsstand next to Christopher
Street Station. The dank debris, the heavy film of filth coats my palms,
my fingers, and grains deep in my nails. The air is humid and still-a
slight breeze carries the waft of rotten meat, peeled tangy tangerines;
the detritus from the neighboring garbage cans. The sound of mosquitoes
feverishly licks the air. I long for clear liquid, clean and pure crystal
waters of vodka-my longtime love, my polite enemy.
I
stumble, thirsty to Caliente Cab Company, a Mexican tourist haven. Bright
lights, flickering bulbs haphazardly draped across the bottles and bottles
of liquor, shouts, loud dance music and cocktail waitresses adorned
in Captain Morgan shirts and pirate caps surround me. I blink in disbelief
as Heidi; the waitress from La Giara greets me. "I remember you!" She
coos, fake baby pink fingertips tap tapping on my shoulder; pen resting
in her peroxide nest. I imagine black pigeons scraping at her skull.
Their droppings-her roots. I long for my vision to blur-a cascade of
lights slowly dimming.
"How
about a Morgan and Coke this time?" Heidi asks and winks.
"Just
water," I reply. I spit at the pigeons. I settle into yet another stool
in yet another bar. I gulp the first glass famished, ravished, parched
and barely wince as the plain liquid streams over my tongue, burns as
it slides down my throat, charring my stomach. I wonder, is this how
lobsters feel? Their blood red paper fine flesh burning, burning, burning?
*
Memory
loss.
Cold
coat of vomit on my arms.
The
brisk drawing of the broom upon the floor scratching my ear.
Wet
slap of a mop, stringy ropes in a pail of sullied, dark waters; ammonia
filters into my nostrils.
I
am dizzy and numb.
It
is 4 A.M.
There
is quiet and I.
I
rise and stumble past Heidi fingering bills, licking her forefinger.
Stack,
stacking of ones, tens and fives.
The
clink clang of quarters rolling on the bar-a greedy hand slaps them
down.
I
stand outside and hail a cab and fall into the street; hands grinding
into the puddle of slime and cigarette butts in the gutter.
A
yellow cab swerves at my feet and a door swings open.
I
steady myself with the door handle and climb in, "107 and Columbus,"
my words slurred and sloppy, eyes closing, sinking in the stink of my
liquored flesh.
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